Laundry Hall Built-In

Turned our boring, anti-storage entry way from the garage into storage powerhouse!

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When you enter our home from the garage, we have a long hallway to the right which houses our laundry room, coat closet, and it is the only place that makes sense to keep our shoes. The previous owners had a hook rack in the middle of the wall which worked fine but we still didn’t have a great spot to hold all our grab n’ go items like work bags, hats, gloves, etc. The whole space felt boring, ineffective, and like it was begging for a better solution. So, I got to planning, 3D modeling, and building! This project was my first BIG build, and I am happy to report this baby has exceeded our expectations!

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To begin…

I measured and 3D modeled every inch of the hallway. Including the trim! I needed to make sure whatever I built did not interfere with our ability comfortably move throughout the space or open things like our front load washer/dryer or existing coat closet. 3D modeling is something I have done for years as a part of my full-time job so it’s my go-to route for mapping everything out; walls, door frame, trim, outlets, all of it. I use Autodesk Fusion 360 and I could not recommend it more. And it’s free! Other people also use SketchUp which may be a little more user friendly for those not familiar with 3D modeling. However, you don’t NEED either of these to map out your build. Paper and pencil are always an option. Just remember to double check your measurements before every cut you make!

Once I had the hallway modeled, I began modeling the built-in. Here are some things we took into account as I began to work:

·         Shoes- How long are our shoes? How many pairs of shoes do we have? We wanted enough shelves for all the ones we had, as well as room for more in the future. How tall are my heels? We wanted a dedicated section for taller shoes like heels and boots. We only have a few of these types of shoes so I didn’t want all the shoe shelves to be this tall or it would cut into our upper storage space. Figure out what works best for you and your space!

·         How long is the longest coat we own? This is how we determined how tall to make the coat section.

·         What size containers do we want for upper storage? After knowing the depth of the build, shoe section, and coat section, I knew how much remained at the top for us to use for additional storage. From there, l searched for products that didn’t exceed this, and looked at what our options were. This helped me determine how many shelves we could fit above the coat section

·         Structural support- for a build of this height and length, we needed some additional support throughout. We made sure to map out the location of our wall studs, secure the built-in to these whenever possible, and create additional strength with two vertical pieces in the middle which divided the built-in into three equal sections. Without this, the middle/top section would sag due to a lack of support from below.

·         Grab n’ go items- we wanted some small shelving to hold things like our keys, wallet, sunglasses, etc. that we take right as we walk out the door and the first things we drop on the counter when we get home. I also wanted a place to hide some of our grab n’ go items that are not as aesthetically pleasing… so I designed these triangle drawers/bins, one for each of us.

·         ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS remember to account for the thickness of the material you are using!!!

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From there I calculated all the materials I would need and, due to the cost, we decided to take a phased approach; lumber was $$$ when I built this!! We made sure we had all the money, plus 30% to account for any unforeseen costs, for a given phase of the build before we started.

Alex and I use You Need A Budget and they are phenomenal. We create categories and assign budgets to each of them at the beginning to the month. Things like our usual monthly expenses, essential purchases, personal funds to spend on whatever we want, and all our cards are linked to it, so we just categorize the charges as they come in.

I truly could not recommend more that couple build a budget together. we used to be stressed all the time because we lived paycheck to paycheck and didn’t know where all our money was going. At the beginning of 2021 I set out to find us a budgeting system that took out all the complication of budgeting and tracking and found YNAB. Alex and I were happy together before, but this has cut down on virtually all the arguments we used to have. It’s cut out the arguments around money, but it also cut out all the nitpicking we did about completely irrelevant things. Having a budget cut out a TON our stress and it turns out, we are much happier, easy-going partners when we aren’t busy worrying about our bills. 10/10 recommend, you will be SO GLAD YOU DID IT!

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The first step of making the build was constructing the frame that would be the foundation of the built-in. I created this using 2x4’s and 2 1/2” wood screws. I secured the frame to the wall studs using 3” wood screws. You can also screw your frame into the floor. We chose not to as it would damage the floor and we wanted the next owners to be able to remove it if they wanted. If they do though, all I have to say is good luck!

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Full disclosure, I built this whole thing and then tried- at 2am I will add- to scoot at all onto the frame. this did not work, when I designed this to go from floor to ceiling, I neglected to consider that, though the ceiling is 96” from the floor, no ceiling is perfectly square! I had to take it all apart except for the first section in order to fit it on the frame. LEARN FROM ME- build the sections as you go!!

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After a given section was done, I slid a sheet of 5mm pre-primed plywood behind to fully close it off. This gave the back of the built-in a more finished look on the back wall.

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When starting a new section, I work from left to right. First, I secured the bottom piece to the frame. Next, I secured the vertical piece, that would make up the right side of the center section, to the bottom horizontal piece. After that, I secured the top horizontal piece to the left and right vertical pieces. This completes the rectangle that makes up the center section. From there, I added all the shelves.

When securing the shelves, I used pocket holes and screws. I did this to keep all the construction hidden for a more seamless look. For shelves below the coat section, I put the pocket holes on the underside. For shelves above the coat section, I put the pocket holes on the top. This way, you never see the screws!

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I used the same pocket hole screw strategy on the triangle shelves. I used shorter screws with smaller heads so I could cover the holes in wood filler and make them completely invisible! The drawers were the hardest part, all I can say is I mapped out the angles, accounted for the material thickness, and it was still hell. If you can, make your drawers square instead of triangular 😂. In the end, all I wanted was for the drawers to be flush when they were closed. Thankfully, they are!

Linked Supplies

The majority of this project was constructed from:
- 2x4’s
- 3/4” sheets of plywood
- 5mm plywood underlayment - used three sheets of this for the backing of the built-in
- Baseboards
- Shoe moulding
- Edge Banding - this stuff is fantastic. I used a few rolls of this on all my raw edges of plywood that faced out into the laundry area. It was one of the most satisfying parts of this project and took
it to the next level. I bought the cheapest kind because I was painting it but you can buy it in made different kinds of wood to match what you are constructing yours out of.
- Wood glue
- Wood screws - They come with their own star drive. I love these because they don’t strip like flat or Phillips-head screws
- Pocket hole screws- because I was screwing into 3/4” pine which is a soft wood, I used 1-1/4” pocket hole screws with coarse threads. I bought 2 packs of these. I used shorter ones for the triangle
shelves because they have smaller heads that I could cover with wood filler and make invisible.
- Pocket hole jig - this, of all my tools, was the MVP of this build 😂 it give you everything you need to make pocket holes and walks you through the whole process. Pocket holes are HUGE from
making a built-in look professionally constructed IMO.

- Caulk and Dispenser - if you are painting your built-in, make sure you buy paintable caulk. Buy a caulk dispenser with an ergonomic grip- you will thank me later!

Other tools used:
- Circular saw - used to make all the big cuts
- Miter saw - used to cut baseboards, shoe trim, and anything under 12” wide that I could cut without the circular saw
- Jig saw - used to cut the outlet holes out of the underlayment
- Drill - I have had this close to six years and have no complaints. it’s tiny but powerful!
- Drill bit set - you buy them one and you’ll use ‘em forever
- Countersink drill bit - used on all the wood screws along the 2/4’s so none of the heads protruded and prevented the baseboards from being flush

- Level
- Speed square
- Stud finder
- Tape measure

Painting supplies:
- Painter’s Tape
- Roller and Frame
- Long handle brush with angled edge - the only brush you should ever use for edge (painting wall paint along trim or the ceiling’s edge) it makes painting these spots SO MUCH EASIER. The long
handle is key for having control.
- Short brush - you need this when you are painting in tighter spaces like shelves. A long handle is going to get in your way, and you are going to have to work around it a lot. Short brushes like this
are what you’ll want
- Top Coat Brush - you definitely want a separate brush that you only use for poly coating. This prevents you from getting any paint in your poly, or poly in your paint…. you also want to make sure the
brush you use for poly is made of synthetic bristles, so it holds up.

Paint:
- Built in - color match to Newburyport Blue by Benjamin Moore, 1 Gallon- Sherwin Williams Showcase- Satin Finish
- Wall - Acier Tint by Valspar, 1 Gallon- Sherwin Williams Showcase- Satin Finish
Always add BB Frösch to your paint! It makes a HUGE difference.
- Top Coat - Varathane Clear Satin Water-Based Interior Polyurethane *I used this on the shoe shelves so they would hold up to grit and grime and wipe down easily.

Hardware:
- Drawer pulls - bought two -brushed brass finish
- Knob and hinges for triangle cabinet - knob is brushed brass finish, hinges are brass plated
- Hooks - bought three for each section - brushed brass finish
- Knobs for cabinet over laundry - brushed brass finish
- Gold key hooks - found these while browsing and they are absolutely perfect

Bins:
- Wood bins
- Plastic white bins

Runner